Wooden terrace on a slope

CONSULTING ” DECKING BOARDS ” slope

Building a wooden terrace on a slope

Building a wooden deck on a slope is a special challenge. First of all, a stable and, in case of doubt, statically tested substructure must be built to compensate for the slope of the hillside. The actual substructure for the decking is then laid and screwed onto this structure.

Construction of a wooden terrace on a slope

Counter battens

Support of the substructure for the decking board.

Post

This provides the vertical height of the wooden deck and bridges the gradient of the slope.

Post shoe

This must match the profile of the post, which is screwed into the post shoe.

Concrete foundation

The concrete is poured using formwork frames. The post shoe stands on this foundation or is concreted into it.

Soil

The soil must be excavated horizontally at the position of the foundations.

Subsoil solid but water-permeable

For a structurally load-bearing substructure on a slope, construction timber with a large span and very good load-bearing capacity is required – such as 90 x 90 mm beams made of hardwood or the Cumaru substructure. These are mounted in post shoes set in concrete or bolted to the foundation with brackets.

The position and number of point foundations depends on the statically possible spans of the structural timber (counter battens and substructure).

Excavating the foundations

Once the positions for the foundations have been determined, for example, the turf is excavated at a right angle of about 0-20 cm on the slope, measuring 50 x 50 cm. This creates a flat surface on which the foundation can be built.

The height differences due to the slope should be compensated for with the help of the level and spirit level. Mason’s cord and rods in the corners of the foundation area can be helpful. The higher the point, the more must be removed so that the foundation is level at the end.

Making the formwork frame

Next, you need a mold for the foundation. Such a formwork frame is built from simple boards that are about 10-15 cm high and should have the same dimensions as the future foundation. To prevent the frame from slipping into the excavated hole later, you should leave two opposite boards of the frame protruding – i.e. they should be longer than the format of the foundation square.

Now lay out the formwork frames to transfer the internal dimensions of the frames (e.g. 30x30cm) to the floor – using paint spray or other marking aids. The foundation holes can then be excavated. Overall, the foundation should have a depth of around 80 cm to protect it against frost (this can vary from region to region. Building authorities can provide precise information). If the height of the formwork frame is 10 cm, 70 cm should be excavated accordingly.

The formwork frames should now be aligned – even with each other if they are lying on a line across the slope. They should have the same height and be aligned.

Pour foundations

Next, the concrete can be mixed according to the specified mixing ratio. It should be filled into the holes immediately. In order to be able to correct the alignment, only fill up to just below the formwork. Now poke the concrete well with a stick: this allows air bubbles to rise and escape.

If the alignment is satisfactory, the last residue can be filled. Once again, air pockets should be prevented by poking. The concrete is then removed cleanly and allowed to dry for the time specified by the manufacturer.
As soon as the concrete is completely dry, the formwork frames can be removed. If there are any problems, you should try carefully with a hammer. The point foundations are now complete. To prevent waterlogging or unnecessary soil being washed away, the surrounding area should be filled with crushed stone and gravel.

All dimensions are subject to change and depend on local conditions. If in doubt, you should seek advice from structural engineers or the relevant building authority.

Teak-Terrassendielen 95mm, Schweiz

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