Laying decking boards

A wooden deck is laid step by step: First, the substrate is prepared and a stable foundation is created, followed by the substructure. The decking boards are then cut to size, screwed together or fastened with clips. In our building instructions, you will find all the details as well as tips on veneering, care and typical error prevention.

In addition to the decking boards, you also need a suitable substructure, support points such as pads or pedestals and fixing materials such as decking screws or clips and spacers to build a wooden deck. Tools such as drills, saws, spirit levels and protective equipment are also required. Optionally, decking oil, weed fleece or tension belts are helpful. You can obtain a complete shopping list with our decking planner.

A wooden deck can be built on almost any surface – whether in the garden on grass or earth, on stone or concrete surfaces, on roofs and balconies or on slopes. The decisive factor is that the substructure stands on a firm, level foundation and that the water can drain away easily. Depending on the substrate, different preparatory work is required to ensure the stability and durability of the decking.

For a wooden deck on earth, the ground is first compacted to prevent it from sinking and covered with a water-permeable weed fleece. This is followed by support points such as concrete slabs or foundation stones, optionally on a layer of gravel for better water drainage. The substructure is then aligned and leveled.

A wooden deck on stone or concrete is installed on deck pads or pedestals, which are placed between the substructure and the floor to ensure clearance, ventilation and cushioning. In the event of unevenness, the substructure can be aligned using a spirit level and level board. If there is plant growth between the stones, a root fleece is also recommended.

On roofs or balconies, the wooden decking is laid on decking pads or pedestals that protect and level the substructure, with EPDM sheeting or tar membranes protected from chemical reactions by root fleece. With steel beams, the substructure is laid either directly on the beams or over pads to avoid noise. The height is leveled using several pads or pedestals, whereby the limited construction height and railing height must be taken into account.

A wooden deck on a slope is built on a stable substructure that compensates for the gradient. For this purpose, concrete point foundations are laid, post shoes are fitted and posts are erected to which the substructure for the decking boards is attached. A level, spirit level and, if necessary, counter battens are used to compensate for height differences so that the decking is level and secure.

On roofs or balconies, the wooden decking is laid on decking pads or pedestals that protect and level the substructure, with EPDM sheeting or tar membranes protected from chemical reactions by root fleece. With steel beams, the substructure is laid either directly on the beams or over pads to avoid noise. The height is leveled using several pads or pedestals, whereby the limited construction height and railing height must be taken into account.

A wooden deck requires different types of foundation depending on the surface: On earth or grass, concrete foundations, post shoes or strip foundations are often used, while on stone, concrete or balconies, pedestal bearings, decking pads or post shoes at certain points are sufficient. The number and spacing of the support points depends on the span of the substructure, whereby counter battens can reduce the number of foundations.

The height of a wooden decking can be leveled by using suitable supports: decking pads are used for low installation heights, pedestal supports (can be extended with adapters) for medium heights and posts for very high decking. The substructure beams are leveled on these supports so that any unevenness in the foundation can be compensated for and the desired decking height can be achieved.

On roofs or balconies, the wooden decking is laid on decking pads or pedestals that protect and level the substructure, with EPDM sheeting or tar membranes protected from chemical reactions by root fleece. With steel beams, the substructure is laid either directly on the beams or over pads to avoid noise. The height is leveled using several pads or pedestals, whereby the limited construction height and railing height must be taken into account.

The substructure of a wooden deck is the supporting structure that determines the height, slope and laying pattern of the boards. It is laid in rows with a maximum center-to-center distance of 50 cm, usually on pedestals or decking pads for ventilation, and can be floating or screwed down. Joints between the boards should be secured with double substructure timbers and timbers should be laid in an offset pattern.

The decking boards are laid at right angles to the substructure, maintaining a distance of 15-20 mm from solid structures to ensure ventilation and prevent waterlogging. Freshly cut edges are waxed and the boards should be laid with joints of 5-8 mm, depending on the width, with spacers to ensure an even joint pattern. A flush finish at the edge of the decking is achieved by a guided end cut after installation.

Decking boards are either screwed together with visible stainless steel decking screws or with a concealed fastening system. Visible screws are simpler and cheaper, but offer less wood protection, while concealed systems are more expensive and more complex, but leave the top of the boards unharmed and improve wood protection.

With visible screw fastening, decking boards are fastened directly to the substructure using stainless steel decking screws. The screws are screwed from above through the boards into the structural timber so that the fastening is visible. This is simple and inexpensive, but offers only moderate protection for the wood.

On roofs or balconies, the wooden decking is laid on decking pads or pedestals that protect and level the substructure, with EPDM sheeting or tar membranes protected from chemical reactions by root fleece. With steel beams, the substructure is laid either directly on the beams or over pads to avoid noise. The height is leveled using several pads or pedestals, whereby the limited construction height and railing height must be taken into account.

A wooden deck is faced by attaching a wooden or aluminum facing to the substructure. The substructure is indented so that the cladding is flush with the decking and the cladding is mounted with screws at a maximum distance of 50 cm, leaving an air gap of at least 5 mm for ventilation. Timber cladding should not be in direct contact with the ground in order to increase its service life.

A staircase for a wooden deck is built in several steps: First, the staircase is carefully planned to determine the number, height and depth of the steps. Then the substructure is constructed from horizontal and vertical structural timbers, which serve as a stable support for the steps. The treads are then bolted to the substructure, usually visibly, and the risers and side facings are fitted to conceal the substructure and give the staircase a finished look. The facing also ensures stability and visual cleanliness.

Crooked decking boards can be straightened again during installation by pressing them against the substructure or spacers when screwing them down. There are several methods:

• Straighten with pressure: One person presses the plank along its entire length against the spacers while the other person screws it in place.
• With tension belts: The plank is fixed at one end, the other end is pulled into position with a tension belt and then screwed into place.
• With plank clamps: These work like screw clamps. A bracket is placed in the joint and when screwed together, it pulls the plank straight so that it can be screwed together evenly.
• This procedure is usually sufficient for slight curvatures. For more severe warping (over 1 cm per meter), you should complain to the supplier or take special measures to adjust the planks.

Typical mistakes in decking construction are insufficient ventilation, incorrect fastening of the boards and too few screws, which can lead to warping, cracks and shorter durability. In addition, too much oil can cause stains and sticky spots, and a short-lived substructure shortens the life of the decking. It is important to ensure sufficient air circulation, to screw the boards together correctly and to match the decking and substructure to each other.

A wooden deck is maintained by cleaning and oiling it regularly. Dirt, algae or old oil can be removed with a special decking cleaner, while decking oil preserves the wood color longer and reduces cracking. In addition, end edge wax can be applied to the cut edges to prevent end cracks, and impregnation against fungal infestation can be applied to less durable wood or poorly ventilated areas.

A wooden deck is cleaned by first soaking it thoroughly so that the cleaner works better. A special decking cleaner is then applied, left to work for around 10-15 minutes and then scrubbed off with a scrubbing brush or root brush. Finally, rinse the decking thoroughly with clear water and optionally treat with decking oil again after drying.